The bourgeois paradise of Greenland: why do Eskimos live better than Russians?
“The home of the Greenlandic Inuit Inuit named Frederic was arranged, as he himself called it,” Russian corner “: a samovar, a balalaika.
On DVD-discs – records of Russian folk songs. Frederic liked to listen to these songs, especially those that are under the balalaika.
Sometimes he announced: “I have a Russian evening today,” and went to the supermarket for local resemblances of herring, sauerkraut and pickled cucumbers. ”
Sequins of beads.
– Once Frederick, two of his companions and a Russian expedition member made a polar circumnavigation – they went around on an open motor boat around the Arctic Ocean, including along the coast of the Russian Arctic. Returning from that journey, Frederic began to organize his famous “Russian gatherings”: he called friends, took out small piles, opened photo albums that he had been given in Russia, and allowed himself to delve into pleasant memories. Before the hike through the dome, we lived in his apartment in Nuuk, the capital of the country. Sometimes Frederic retired in the kitchen and cooked for all lunch or breakfast. Once, for example, he treated us to a hot duck. And one night he warned: “We will have a special dinner.” His wife Lina spread out on the plates some square pieces: as it turned out, the boiled meat of seals. I could see with what pleasure Frederic was dying his piece, and he also began to eat, but then stopped. It seemed to me that I chew a tasteless piece of rubber, and I furtively spit it out in the palm of my hand. Although in fact, seafood is a high-calorie and healthy food, which you just need to get used to. In addition, the Greenlanders are accustomed to eat and the walrus or seal meat with a smell is a bit stale.
Thank God, they did not offer us …
Taxes and icebergs.
The Danes who worked in Nuuk and other settlements often let us know: they are there because, in contrast to Denmark itself, Greenland does not have to pay taxes. And not only them, but also other inhabitants of the island. Once, at an airport in a remote village of Kangerlussuaq, we heard a Russian speech: a young beautiful woman, blond, communicated with her daughter. She said that she came from Russia. Her husband, a Dane, worked as a leading specialist at the same airport. In a month he received a salary more than 5 thousand dollars. In Denmark itself, he would give almost half of his income as taxes …
The soul of the Inuit.
On the day when we flew to Ammassalik on a small airplane like our An-24, the husky-husky family of the Eskimos had three puppies. They lay in a snowdrift near the house. Chalk blizzard. I was surprised by the indifference of others – even the children ran past the freezing newborn without showing any emotion. We tried to arrange a box for the puppies. Seeing this, Robert Perrone made us remark: they say, the Inuit do not like this. If the puppy is destined to survive – he will not die.
In Greenland’s “paradise” I often recalled another trip – to the Yakut port of Tiksi. Smile there is a rarity, and a liter of milk sells at the price of bottles of vodka.
Greenland is the largest island in the world. It is washed by the Atlantic and Arctic Oceans. Autonomous territory of Denmark. The population of 58 thousand people. More than 80% of the island is covered with an ice shield (“dome”) with a thickness of 2-3 thousand meters.