How to go to Paris and learn confectionery from the best.
Parents prepared for Maria Troitskaya the fate of the architect, but the girl decided to do her favorite thing – to cook fantastic cakes and desserts. The hobby became a profitable business and led her to Paris, to the world stars of confectionery art.
confectioner, lives and works in Paris.
From the design of buildings to the architecture of cakes.
It all began at age 17, when I realized at the first courses at the Moscow Architectural Institute that I did not want to, like everyone in my family, devote the whole life to the profession of an architect. I loved architecture very much, but so that for good, no. At that time, I was actively losing weight, and therefore began to get involved in the preparation of low-calorie desserts. Cooking is such a quick joy: the most difficult dessert takes about five days, and the result brings pleasure and joy to loved ones. Studying at the institute, I cooked every day. Then it seemed to me that all this was insanely difficult. At some point it became normal for everyone that I always come to visit with my cake. Two years later a friend ordered me a cake for my hen-party, it was my first commercial order.
I became more and more orders, I shared my creativity in Instagram, I was noticed. I remember how we considered my income with my mother: in a month 11-12 thousand rubles were clean. And then the figures increased two or three times. I really liked that I was earning something and providing myself and that I managed to combine culinary work with the institute.
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Brand Marie Oiseau Patisserie.
I often cooked mousse cakes for classic French recipes, with a mirror glaze or a velvet coating. I always approached the question seriously – I’m an architect. Therefore, for each cake, I had drawings of the sections. Sometimes I did 3D models in ArchiCad or 3ds Max. Almost before each cake she made sketches to understand how it would look. Once I realized that in order to become noticeable and talk about you, you have to swim against the current: everyone makes a circle, and you’re square, everyone decorates with lounges, and you put these chocolate circles. I began to bring in the desserts what I myself come up with. And it worked: I had my own style – a mixture of architectural compositions and sweets. Of course, I try to develop this now.
Study in Paris and an internship in the United States.
At first I was self-taught, I tried everything on my own and was terribly upset that I did not get pasta pasta. In 2013, my mother gave me a birthday present: she gave me a short course on cooking macaroni at the Alain Ducasse school in Paris. This was a great practice for my French. And I finally learned how to make these cakes.
A year later I went on an intensive course, also to Paris, to the Christophe Michalak school for the preparation of author’s titles Kosmik. I really wanted to get on the personal course of Christoph Mishalak, but because of the great demand it was unrealistic. I studied with professionals from his team, some of them already had their own confectionery at that time. And this was also an excellent experience.
A year later I went to a more advanced course – in Bellouet Conseil. There I learned how to make mousse cakes and decor. By the time I already knew everything myself, I felt more confident. But it’s good when you can see how professionals do the same thing, and learn something new: the right movements, the organization of work and so on.
Then I was very lucky: on social networks I became friends with Antonio Bashur, one of the top ten US confectioners. Then he was not so famous, but now he is, of course, a star. We talked, he saw a photo of my work and offered to take a two-week internship in his restaurant in Miami. The same evening I bought a ticket to the United States. This practice helped me a lot: I had new knowledge, great confidence in myself and what I was doing. The inner feeling that I’m on my way and I’ve been noticed.
At some point, articles began to appear about me – it was very unexpected!
All these stages I passed while I was studying at the institute for an architect.
Californicaketion in Moscow and the decision to move to France.
By the end of the MARCHI, I had many suggestions for working in the culinary field. In 2016 I started to cooperate with the confectionery Californicaketion. While I was in Moscow, we evolved, but it was time to move to Paris – I dreamed about it and prepared for a long time. She successfully passed all the exams, and entered the magistracy of the School of Fine Arts in Paris for architecture. The first year was the most difficult: I supervised the pastry shop at a distance with the help of video calls and often came to Moscow. When you are not there and do not see what is happening there, it’s impossible to keep everything at a high level. I realized that I can no longer live and work in two cities, and in the summer of 2017 we stopped cooperation. It was difficult: it seemed that I was leaving everything I had achieved, and I was going to a completely new country where there were no friends where no one knew you. It was a psychologically difficult choice.
Expensive apartments in Paris without oven.
I live in Paris the second year, I study in a magistracy. Living in France is not easy: here is insanely expensive housing, it is problematic to find an apartment with an oven and do not go broke. Once in the institute to one of the projects I was given the task to prepare a cake. Applying all my knowledge, I came up with what I can do without an oven: I do not have it in my apartment. As a result, it turned out really beautiful. Nobody believed that I did it in a tiny apartment. At that moment, I realized that if you really want something, then you’ll get out and do it.
All confectioners live in Paris.
Little by little, I began to receive orders for cakes in Paris. All my cakes here I do without the oven: there is no such possibility. They are different, but still very tasty. To get a job in France, I need to pass exams here at the public school. For example, the same Le Cordon Bleu – a private school, if you do not pass the state examination, it will not help you in finding employment. For any employer in France, it is the state diploma that is important.
Everything complicates the fact that France – a country of confectioners and confectionery business here are usually engaged in the age of 13 – 14. To be noticed, you need to do many times more than in Moscow. Then every fourth makes confectionery, because in this country it is difficult to achieve something. But the bar is really high. It upsets me that I’m 22, at this age in France already become chefs in expensive restaurants, and I will take the exam with 14-year-old guys. But I’m ready for anything.
Internship in L’Eclair de Genie.
Almost all summer I did a portfolio, collected materials. I sent 100 to 200 CVs a day. At some point, I realized that I had to send CVs everywhere, because I would not lose anything from this. I was answered from four places, and I went to a two-month internship at L’Eclair de Genie. It was an interesting experience. I realized that it’s morally difficult for me to think up eclairs alone when there are a million different ideas in my head. And also – that everything is possible, in general, you can get to any place in any country. While I’m not attached to the place or people, I want to try myself in a completely different country – the US or Australia. I understand what needs to be done: sit down and dedicate a month to a search, just send 300 – 400 portfolios to different addresses. And everything will turn out.
Architectural themes for conversation.
I still have to study architecture for a year and a half, and it seems terribly illogical to give up everything and devote myself entirely to confectionery. I would like to combine two professions. Because architecture is something amazing, I love it madly, I write articles about it, I understand it, I adore books on architecture. My environment, my friends, my family – it’s all the same architects, and I have with them architectural themes for conversation. Do I have any confectioners? They can be counted on the fingers of one hand. I can not say that I’m very interested in communicating with children from the confectionery industry.
Confectionery art is a way of self-expression.
Confectionery art for me – a way of self-expression. From the sketch to the thought process. Sometimes before morning I draw sketches of cakes. The most interesting moment for me is when I cut the cake and see what’s inside it, and then I see how people try it. For me, this is the same process of construction and design, as in architecture, only in a more concise form. The creation of an architectural project can be delayed for 15 years, before the cut of the red ribbon on the building is five years. Creating a dessert, even if it’s a week, is fast. You can create a new often and in a larger amount. And there is something special about the fact that what I have created disappears in just 15 minutes. A kind of performance.
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Future plans.
I can not imagine that I’ve been sitting all my life working in the office, drawing on someone. Just as it is not my business to cook desserts, not invented by me. I will move in the direction of creating my personal desserts. I do not know yet what form this project will take, but, of course, I will create only my own.
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